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Bit of theory first
"The major components of butters and coconut oil are one or more saturated fatty acids, while the major components of most oils are a mixture of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids. One must assume that the differences in performance when used as emollients for the hair are a direct result of these differences in molecular structure. This is exactly the reason, and the science is fairly straight forward.
You will recall recent discussions we have had regarding the nature of the cuticle layer of the hair. Pores in the cuticle layer (whether from damage or from its being slightly open due to being wet) allow passage of some molecules into the cell membrane complex layer that is just beneath the cuticle scales. The fatty acids in this lipid layer act as a diffusion port that allows some fatty acids to penetrate the hair shaft. However, due to molecular structure and geometry, not all fatty acids are created equal in their ability to diffuse into the hair.
Generally, molecules with a straight chain geometry (saturated fatty acids), such as stearic acid, lauric acid, and palmitic acid can easily fit through the pores of the cuticle layer and slither through the CMC and into the interior of the cortex. Recent spectroscopic studies have allowed scientists to confirm that monounsaturated fatty acids are also able to readily penetrate the interior of the hair via this route. However, polyunsaturated fatty acids seem unable to penetrate into the interior of the hair at all, and remain either adsorbed onto the exterior surface of the hair or may get wedged into the cuticle layer.
Fatty acids in the interior of the hair can provide brittle hair with much-needed suppleness and elasticity. However, porosity is a very important factor to consider when using easily absorbed oils and butters. If one has very porous hair, it can absorb excessive quantities of these oils, which can lead to a host of problems."
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/curlchemist-helps-us-understand-oils-and-butters?page=5
The shortest chain fatty acid that is abundant in nature is lauric acid (12-carbon) found in coconut, palm kernel and babassu oils. Not only can this prevent protein loss (=damage) during bleaching but also UV damage, combing and when the hair is wetted.
"The findings clearly indicate the strong impact that coconut oil application has to hair as compared to application of both sunflower and mineral oils. Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft."
http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc2003/cc054n02/p00175-p00192.pdf
Posted : May 21, 2012 4:08 pm
This method utilises time to help the oil penetrate the hair, rather than heat which allows dye to leach out, and uses the minimum of water. I have not lost any more dye than I do during a regular wash, and my curls are super shiny and very bouncy! *yay*
1. If you use silicone–based conditioners, heat protectants or styling products that are not water-soluble (eg. hairspray), double clarify your hair. If you do not, conditioner-only wash your hair with a light oil-free product until it feels ‘squeaky’ clean
2. Towel turban and/ or air-dry your hair until it is only very slightly damp. This is to ensure the cuticle remains slightly open (NB no vinegar rinses because this closes the cuticle)
3. For mid length hair melt a tablespoon of coconut oil (more for very long or thick hair) in the microwave
4. Evenly distribute the oil through the hair concentrating on the most damaged or porous areas
5. Twist the hair into a bun, use a claw clip or wear a shower cap. You are not particularly aiming to retain the heat of your head, simply stop the coconut oil rubbing off and keep it in a semi-liquid state
6. Leave the hair for at least eighteen hours, preferably longer! This is when the lauric acid is slowly diffusing into the hair cortex
7. Without rewetting the hair, evenly distribute shampoo or CO-wash conditioner through the hair
8. Scrunch handfuls of water into the hair, enough so the product lathers and sounds squelchy, but not so much that your hair is dripping. Scrunch and/ or massage the oiliest areas
9. Clip your hair on your head for up to five minutes, wear a shower cap if necessary
10. Rinse hair thoroughly in warm to cool water, repeat the wash unless your hair feels clean. There is no need to condition.
Posted : May 21, 2012 4:13 pm
I'm going to try this soon, sounds lush!
I did it before but slightly different pre-bleach:
1. Double-clarify
2. Air-dry hair until damp
3. Apply liquid coconut-oil all over
4. Left for 18 hours (then bleached right over)
My hair felt lovely. It appears to have helped with the bleach damage, too. I'll be doing the above in the next few days, though! =)
Posted : May 22, 2012 8:49 pm
I should do this soon. We're talking about virgin coconut oil and not, um, cooking coconut oil, right?
Posted : June 12, 2012 10:52 am
Virgin coconut oil and cooking coconut oil are the same thing, I think.
Posted : June 12, 2012 12:31 pm
Oh dear, I need to be sure haha cos cooking coconut oil is in the same section as canola, vegetable etc oil while VCO is usually in the beauty section. Would be great if both can be used, though!
Posted : June 12, 2012 12:38 pm
It's not always the same 😉
Go for the virgin one and you're safe!
In Germany you can also buy refined coconut oil for cooking, so you might be right.
Anyways...VIRGIN OIL 😀
Posted : June 12, 2012 4:43 pm
Thanks! Going to get a bottle of VCO and find 18 hours to leave it on. The time is usually the challenge!
Posted : June 12, 2012 5:49 pm
What about the coconut oil you can get in Superdrug (in the UK), is that the same?
Posted : July 10, 2012 5:14 pm
I personally found the superdrug stuff not as good, it's certainly not as supple (although some people melt theirs in the microwave, whereas I've always done the body heat method!)
If you get food grade co, then it's very soft, and a kind of pearlised white, while the superdrug stuff is solid and completely white.
Apparently you can find pure co for about £2 in tesco in the world food aisle, and basically any food grade stuff will probably be cheaper than the stuff from Holland and barratt.. (this is basically just personal experience, but obviously some people found the superdrug stuff ok, I assume)
(the superdrug stuff is hydrogenated, but not really sure what that means in terms of effectiveness, apparently it raises the melting point)
Posted : July 10, 2012 5:21 pm
what does co wash mean? i've never understood and felt stupid to ask xD. is it to do with cones? because my hair feels normal and i looked at my shampoo/conditioner and they have cones in it! never though about looking at my products! i know my deep conditioner doesn't have any in! i have done 4 bleaches and done loads of deep conditioning but confused at why my hair looks fine! i'm guessing its to do with plastic coating my hair :/ xxx
Posted : July 13, 2012 10:13 am
CO stands for both conditioner only and coconut oil, so that always confuses me
but a conditioner only wash is using a very basic conditioner instead of a shampoo, to avoid sulphates hurting your scalp/making hair more greasy (conditioners contain emulsifiers which cut through grease) and then using a slightly heavier but cone free conditioner as a 'conditioner' 🙂
Posted : July 13, 2012 11:07 am
NOOO! You must NOT microwave the oil and you must use virgin/cold pressed coconut oil! Reason is if you heat it up too much it will lose it's properties! Heat has been used to extract the cooking coconut oil and is therefore cheaper. If you want the best from your coconut oil you must get 100% pure cold pressed virgin coconut oil. Never let it get above body temp. 😀
Posted : July 16, 2012 1:20 pm
Dunno if im being stupid here but am a bit confused: Would the double clarifying not strip colour out?
Posted : August 20, 2012 11:16 am
as a conditioner, would olive oil work with this method?
Posted : November 14, 2012 4:36 am
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