My hair was recently cut very, very short, so my current hair is nearly virgin. The oldest and longest bits have probably only been dyed black twice. I used a permanent, but ammonia-free, jet black dye on my naturally blackish brown hair. I think that, underneath the dye, my hair has probably been lifted to about a level 3, based on my prior experience with black dye. That means that I expect my hair to be warm red, but not orange, after color stripping.
IMO the color I am aiming for is more of a deep intense cinnamon shade than a flaming copper. All the sites that had pics of Rhianna with this shade seemed to think that her hair is neon orange here, but I disagree. I really don’t want to miss the mark and end up with neon orange hair again. It’s a mistake I’ve made more than once. It’s great on other people but it’s not for me. I’m looking for a permanent or semi-permanent result btw. How would you achieve this if you were me?
It’s not neon orange. It’s s bright, but it’s nit neon. It’s actually in the range I call “hyper natural” in that it’s based on a natural colour, but exaggerated!
You need to remove the remnants of the black first. Use a colour remover. You’ll need to lighten your hair to around a level 5 or something. Basically speaking, ginger! Lighten it any more and it makes it more likely you’ll get that neon orange. So use a good bleach (but avoid any that say something like lifts 7 shades as you don’t need that), but a very low vol peroxide so it works nice and slowly.
Take a look at the Adore range if dyes. https://www.beeunique.co.uk/hair-dye/adore A mix of cinnamon and Cajan spice would be good, maybe with a teeny bit of Intense Red to give it a bit more depth that she appears to have.
Direct dyes are the best way to go with reds/oranges, especially intense tones like that. All red dyes fade, permanent ones even more than semis, ironically. With direct dyes you can mix some of your colour into your normal conditi9ner and have a top up every time you wash your hair. This is far, far better than redying with a permanent dye all the time.
Wow thanks! That’s exactly what I needed to know. At first I though that I needed to lighten to a level 7. I’m not even sure why I thought so. I’m also not sure what makes a bleach good or bad. Do you recommend a certain brand? How low vol should my developer be? I was going to go with twenty, but I’ve seen people use volumes as low as 5. I’m worried that might take multiple sessions just to lighten 2 levels, but I want to minimize damage.
I like blondor or indola most, but the ones I use are all high lift as I like blues and greens best, so I have to get it pretty light! I believe they both have a bleach that isn’t so high lift, but I’ve not used them. Basically, don’t get a bleach that’s available in high street shops.
Low volume would be 10 most of the time. It might be worth getting a 20 and you can dilute it with water (by 50% to get 10 vol) the. You can do a couple of swatch tests. If you can spare some hair or use some hairbrush hair if you have some, mix up a little bleach and time how long it takes to change to the desired colour. Wrap it in cling film and make sure it’s in a warm place, don’t let it go cold. Your body heat keeps bleach working! This way you should get the perfect colour, it’s unlikely you’ll need two rounds. You just need to get it a ginger colour and that’s usually pretty easy, even when people don’t want it! 😉