Hi, sorry if this is the wrong place for this, but I have a load of questions and they sort of overlap a bit (mods please move if needed) It's a bit of a saga!
I'm interested in going for a light/pastely pink. My natural colour - from 500 years ago - is a sort of darkish mousey brown (ridiculously thick, boob length). Last time I dyed my hair - over 6months ago (can't really remember) was a permanent dark brown.
So I'm currently mid/darkish reddish brown - after using Jobaz yesterday - I reasoned that it was best to remove as much dye as possible before bleaching as colour remover is less harsh than bleach.
Prior to that, I had cut a few strands and used Bblonde (high lift and 40vol developer) to do a test. I did one for 60 mins and one for 90 mins - they both ended up the same colour more or less, but the 90 min strand the virgin hair at the root had gone 'inside of a banana' yellow. Both test strands felt a little bit horrible, but they responded ok to stretching - no breakage or anything. But I decided that I wouldn't bleach for longer than 60 mins anyway as the colour didn't change that much.
So my plan was to coconut oil myself up and apply the bleach for 60 mins, and then wait a week or so (doing shedloads of conditioning treatments) and do a bleach bath to lighten further, and then (if needed) wait another week and do another bleach bath until my hair was light enough - I don't need to to be platinum/white exactly just light blonde. Obviously this would all be interspersed with loads of conditioning.
Here's a pic I did of the 60 min strand
That is sloppily applied Directions Cerise, and on the right is the colour the hair was after one bleaching session - very gingery.
Now, I could live with the Cerise for a while, but not the ginger.
I don't have a pic but today I did another strand test on a piece of hair after using JoBaz - and despite the start colour of the hair being lighter - after bleaching for 60 mins, the colour was hardly any brighter than the non JoBazed hair, in fact it was a little darker?
So my questions are as follows (thanks for sticking with me!)
1) How long should I wait after using JoBaz to bleach?
2) Is my proposed idea too intensive? Should I be looking at months rather than weeks?
3) If so, if I bleach once, and then apply Directions cerise while I'm letting the hair recover (I can live with that but not that gingery shade!) for a month or two - letting the dye fade naturally - would the subsequent bleach baths be ineffective? (bearing in mind that my goal is light pink anyway and not white blonde)
4) My hair is pretty long - and the ends are a bit frazzled (due to not triming properly and using a razor) so I expect if there is any damage it would hit there first. Is it better to trim those bits off prior, or to wait until after?
Any advice would be appreciated - sorry for being so longwinded! )
Ideally you need to wait a week after a remover before bleaching, otherwise the colour can re-oxidise. Is your hair now as light or lighter than when you put the permanent dye on? If not i would do another colour remover.
The main flaw in your plan is 40 vol peroxide in the bleach and leaving it on 90 minutes, that is pretty harsh! I wouldn't use anything higher than 30 vol for 45 minutes if you want to keep your hair long.
I wouldn't use full strength Cerise if you are planning on going lighter. It won't stop the bleach working, but it will be really difficult to see which areas need further lightening. You could tone with a very diluted blue/violet to take the brassy tones out of the intermediate colour, it is easier to get a pale base if you don't add any more layers of colour. The hardest part of going from dark to light is dealing with the ugly brassy colours that bleaching reveals
My hair is now considerably lighter than when I dyed it.
I was only going to do 60 mins, 90 mins seemed pretty pointless because the colour didn't seem any lighter. But I take your point about the developer. Unfortunately I don't have much money - and it seems that the lower vol developers are harder to get hold of in my area, so could I dilute the 40 vol developer somehow?
When you mention toning with diluted blue/violet, would Directions or something similar be ok to use? Or would I have to get hold of something more specialist?
Thanks for the advice 🙂
You can dilute. See this thread for more details http://www.hairdyeforum.com/index.php?topic=1944.0
Directions is fine. Use a super cheap white conditioner to dilute.
Thanks so much,
Would directions violet be a good shade to dilute to tone out the ginger?
Directions Violet and Neon blue are both great for making toners. The exact shade you will need will depend on how orange/yellow the hair is. Blue tones orange, violet tones yellow. If money is tight i would get Neon blue, you can mix it with the Cerise to get a more purple shade if required.
Try looking online if products are hard to find locally. a really good bleach powder will give more lift so do do less damage as you won't need to leave it on as long or use such strong peroxide.
All bleach does most of it's lifting in the first 15 minutes. It stops lifting after a while but continues to damage hair, so I try and avoid leaving any bleach on for extended periods of time.