Hair breaking off -- is my stylist at fault?

You definitely need to ask her to stop doing that. You shouldn't overlap previously bleached hair at all.  If she wants to remove yellow tones and make your hair more platinum, she should be using a purple toner (with NO peroxide)
I would also suggest lowering the peroxide volume to 30 vol. i have almost black hair and can get my hair to white with one 30 vol , 40 minute session and toner.
You need to restore protein and moisture to your hair. Most of us here use kpak reconstructor to restore protein and you can also use a moisture conditioning mask.
Next time you go, ask her nicely to stop putting bleach over the already processed parts, it is definitely causing the breakage and dryness.

Thanks Allie! I knew I wasn't crazy. I did a ton of research before embarking on my platinum experience (I initially wanted to see if I could do it myself but I eventually decided to have a pro do it).  As such, I was surprised that my stylist used 40v on my hair. I actually think I may start doing the roots myself (with help to get the back parts).  With all of the research I've done and watching my stylist, I think I'm ready to do it alone. With 30v, of course!

Oh, my stylist also uses a toner (Redken Platinum Ice).

Is the Kpac reconstructor you mention from Joico? I've been trying out various masks and conditioners (yesterday did a yogurt/egg/coconut oil DIY mask--- basically anything with protein I had in the kitchen).  But I want to try the Kpac now  *1*

It really shouldn't be lifted straight to platinum either. It should be taken to palest yellow (like the inside of a banana) then TONED to platinum/white with a purple shampoo or a tiny bit of purple dye in conditioner.

Taking it to white is bad in the first place, then to bleach over that again is nuts!

Thanks janine, i forgot to say that.
Yes, the kpac is joico and it works wonderfully. Just be careful with protein as too much of it can cause hair to feel worse/drier. I only use joico after bleaching as a mask and then every other week as my regular conditioner.

Is the toner your stylist uses mixed with a developer? If it is, then not only is she overlapping previously bleached hair, she's then going on to double process your hair with more peroxide! Only toners that are direct dyes should be used, so anything that doesn't need mixing before you use it (unless you're diluting a direct dye with conditioner, that is) is what you should be using to tone from pale yellow to platinum.

Personally, I would find a new stylist.  (P.S. or better yet, do it yourself!)

After reading your initial post and seeing you like to have a bit of root, I wonder how often you've gone for root touch-ups since January.  But rubbing a 40-volume bleach solution over all your hair as a regular upkeep, even if only for a few minutes, is really bad!

I was actually horrified to read this is a bleaching method of a stylist, but I've also experienced a very inexperienced stylist whom I allowed to touch my hair with bleach, the only time.  It wasn't a horror story, but I don't think I could trust another stylist when it comes to bleach... so many are just so inept, it's pathetic!

Thanks for all the advice. Alexia -- Since late January, I've been going about every 8 weeks so three root touch-ups between then and now, I think. I know to wait longer between could be bad because the roots will be too long to get even lift.

She does lift it to the palest yellow and then tones it. She mixes the Redken toner with something though I am not sure what (I thought I overheard her once mention Redken Crystal Clear which I just looked up and it's a conditioner). Maybe someone who knows Redken products will know better than me, I tried really hard to listen to everything she does and what products she used so I can eventually do it myself !

My stylist is amazing with my cuts so I am very disappointed that you all are confirming what I thought about her bleaching abilities.

Ordering that Kpac now!  *cheers*

A quick google search shows that the Redken toner you mentioned is usually mixed 1:1 with a 'processing solution' also made by Redken, which lists hydrogen peroxide as one of the main ingredients.  Unfortunately, it doesn't show what volume peroxide the processing solution is.  The Redken toner itself is also described as a 'clear conditioner', so I'd assume that it's the toner your stylist was talking about when mentioning the 'clear gloss' thing, and I'd also assume that she's probably mixing it with the recommended peroxide based processing solution too, which means she is double processing your hair.

Thanks for all the advice. Alexia -- Since late January, I've been going about every 8 weeks so three root touch-ups between then and now, I think. I know to wait longer between could be bad because the roots will be too long to get even lift.  ...

My stylist is amazing with my cuts so I am very disappointed that you all are confirming what I thought about her bleaching abilities. ...

🙁  If she's brilliant with cutting, perhaps you can sort out another way to maintain your colour/roots and just let her know you've got to give your hair a break from the regular bleaching at the moment, and just go to her for cuts.  Three times since January isn't loads, but I guess with 40v rubbed over the already-processed hair has taken its toll.

A difficult one, you want to keep her as your stylist, but I don't think her bleaching methods will be good for your hair in the long run.  I'd say chat with us a bit here 🙂 and sort out a new plan for your colour maintenance, and see if she can respect that and just do your regular styling.

Thanks Mindi! 

Alexia -- Thanks for the advice! I think even without this issue, I wanted to try to do the roots myself to save the $$$ (I'm not a total newbie when it comes to hair dye and bleach). I'm actually moving to a new city in a couple of months -- only about 2 hours away so close enough that I can still visit for cuts, but far enough to use it as an excuse to not deal with the color.

Holy crap she does what :O

The girls are right - she needs to stop that, she needs to drop the volume - especially when shes putting you under heat! Theres enough heat on your heat tbh! Triple processing every time you go!  *stars*

These horror stories with stylists.  😮 How the hell do they get jobs. 🙁 You poor thing!

Do you think you could do your roots yourself? Stick with us - we can guide you through it - safely!!!

Swilks -- under the heat for 30 minutes too! Last time I had my roots done, they almost completely lifted even before the dryer and I STILL sat there for a half hour.  *stars*  When I showed her my broken off bits, she was kind of flippant and said, "Well, that's what happens with bleach!"

So the more I read responses here, the more I'm determined to do it myself from now on. I will ask all the questions! Like, are there any decent toners that don't require peroxide? I have used Virgin Snow by Manic Panic (I love the color) but it does wash out quickly.  Wella says to mix with 20v.

*thx*

I prefer to use directions white the first time and then purple shampoo, leaving it as a toner on towel dry hair for 10-30 minutes. 

are there any decent toners that don't require peroxide?

what i tend to do is buy a pot of purple directions or mix my own purple from a pink and a blue, keep them stored in their pots and add a pinky finger dollop to my bottle of white conditioner and mix it in well. its so much cheaper in the long run and you can customise the strength so that if your roots turn out more of a darker yellow than you liked you can tone them down into a cooler shade 🙂

that isnt what happens with bleach, i have platinum hair and not one bits snapped off; its what happens when stylists/people over process or use something too strong/leave it on too long and cause too much damage :/ sounds to me like she was trying to shift blame from herself to you for choosing that hair colour which was wrong of her. As youre moving soon tell her you wont have time to stay long for the whole bleaching process so youll just have your regular hair cut done.