Hello everyone!
So I posted a while back about my first bleaching adventures and was wondering if I could pick your brains for some more great advice.
As a guy, I have a short hair cut, with about 2" ontop and very short on the sides. I am naturally a light mucky brown but have been bleaching my hair to achieve a light ash blonde for a while. However I am a little confused about certain things.
Normally I simply bleach my whole hair every month (I get my hair cut at least once a month!) to lift it a couple of levels and this is where the trouble starts...
I then achieve a red rust color which I know is to be expected. After doing this I add a demi permanent ash blonde dye over it. This sometimes works and sometimes does not.. so then I try a toner ontop of it (wella T10 etc...) this, along with purple shampoo, rarely works as well.
I am dying to get this bleach and dye (or tone!?) routine down so that I can repeat it every month without having to go through endless bottles of dyes etc.. to get it right.
Is the solution to bleach (with 20vol) to acquired level then tone? or dye? Or do I have to bleach it to pale yellow just to bring it back down to an ashy blonde again?
Thank you! π π
A full bleach with 20 vol on virgin hair that is naturally light brown should get you much lighter than 'red rust'. What products are you using and how long are you leaving it on for?
I am using a Wella powder bleach with clairol developer, and normally take it off when it is lifted a level or two ( I don't leave it on for too long) I then use a demi 8a dye with a creme developer.
I would leave it on a little longer, if you bleach past the orange stage you will have far fewer warm tones to try and tone. I usually aim for one shade lighter than the shade i eventually want, so if i want a level 8 ash blonde I would bleach to a level 9.
I do seem to always end up with orangey tones no matter what, especially when under certain lights...
After doing this would I then dye or tone?
There isn't really any difference between dye and oxidative toner, although will get more lift from a dye if used with a higher level peroxide. Ideally you should get all the lift needed from the bleach and use a low volume peroxide with the dye/toner after to make it a deposit only colour.
I had no idea! Thanks for that info. Would you advise waiting a while to bleach again seeing as a took it off to early then went through all the hassle with dyes and toners? My hair condition doesn't feel dry at all and I haven't shampooed it in a while!